Quantcast
Channel: Barbara Brackman's MATERIAL CULTURE
Viewing all 1441 articles
Browse latest View live

Savannah and the Cotton Trade

$
0
0
I spent my Thanksgiving holiday in Savannah, Georgia.

We picked the spot for the architecture and the ocean.


Both lived up to our expectations.

Savannah Cotton Exchange Building, built in 1886.
Architect William G. Preston.

The Cotton Exchange about 1910

I unexpectedly learned a lot about the history of cotton...

the raw commodity, way before it became yarn, fabric or print.


When these early postcard photos were taken in the port of Savannah about 1900-1915, the United States was the world's largest producer of cotton. A century ago in 1914, Georgia farmers planted millions of acres of cotton---the high point of American cotton production.

Cotton was shipped out into the Atlantic along the Savannah River.

When the Savannah Cotton Exchange was built Savannah was the second largest shipper of cotton in the world. Cotton supported the city.

The Telfair House

Before the end of slavery, Mary Telfair was the richest
woman in the state of Georgia, with a fortune based
on the cotton/slavery plantation empire. She willed
her home to the city for a museum.

After five years of war and trade embargoes, post-Civil-War cotton production rebounded.

Weighing cotton in the early 20th-century

Cotton merchants, the middlemen between planter and fabric mill,
were called cotton factors.

Factors in Savannah set world prices.


French painter Edgar Degas had an American brother 
who was a cotton factor. Degas painted the office at the New Orleans
Cotton Exchange in 1873, while he tried his hand at 
making money rather than art. The factors pictured are judging
cotton's quality and checking the markets in the newspapers.

"Factors Walk," restored industrial buildings on the Savannah River

But disaster struck 100 years ago,

Forsyth Park about 1910

causing Savannah to be prettily frozen in time.


The disaster came in small form, a cotton-devouring beetle known as the Boll Weevil (Anthonomus grandis).

Chopping Cotton on Rented Land, Green County, Georgia, 1941.
Photo by Jack Delano, Library of Congress.

By the mid 1920s cotton acreage in Georgia was half what it had been a decade earlier. The Savannah Cotton Exchange closed in 1920.

J.A. Johnson's  Youngest Son Picking Cotton, 1939,
North Carolina.
Photo by Marion Post Wolcott, Library of Congress.

Drought, low commodity prices and continuing boll weevil problems devastated the cotton industry
in the Southeastern U.S. By 1937 America had lost its place as the world's leading cotton producer.

Since the 1970s a U.S. Department of Agriculture program to eradicate boll weevils without pesticides has been succeeding, but rebuilding American cotton agriculture has been a hard row to hoe (so to speak).

Today China is the world's largest cotton producer with India close behind. The U.S. is third.


And now I know one very good reason why my reproduction quilt fabrics are not printed on American-grown cotton.

STARS IN A TIME WARP: Weekly Lessons in a Shower of Stars

$
0
0

In 2015 I'm planning a QuiltAlong over on my Civil War Quilts blog. Every Wednesday I'll post a piece----but it won't be a pattern for a different design each week.

For the Stars in a Time Warp QuiltAlong we'll be doing the same 6" sawtooth star every week.


Vintage Variable Star or Sawtooth Star, mid-19th-century

What will change weekly is the fabric.

Vintage star quilt, early-19th-century

Each post will be a lesson on reproduction fabrics in a particular style or color.

Vintage Sawtooth Star top about 1880-1910.

You'll wind up with many 6" stars that you can mix or match into time warp quilts....

Feathered Star Medallion reproduction quilt by
Bettina Havig
Reproduction quilts large and small.

Jacobean Meadow reproduction quilt by
Jean Stanclift

Reproduction quilt by Jerrye VanLeer

Reproduction block

You may want to copy the vintage blocks closely

or interpret them in softer  shades.



The fabric lessons will be based on my books America's Printed Fabrics 1770-1890 and Making History: Quilts and Fabric from 1890-1970.


Reproduction blocks

In January we'll begin in the 1840s with tips for finding authentic reproduction prints in Turkey red and Prussian blue style.

Doll quilt, about 1900

We'll go forward in time stitching sawtooth stars from the reproduction prints in your stash or on your shopping list.

Star set on point about 1840

 Because it's a time warp we can shift backwards too, exploring the days of chintz and toile.

Roseanne Smith
Morris Star reproduction

You can make one star or more each week. By the end of the series we'll have a shower of stars to set into a quilt from mini-sized to king-sized.

I'm snipping a triangle from every piece of reproduction
fabric in my stash to make a charm quilt of triangles while I piece
6" star blocks.

Look for the first post on the first Wednesday of January: January 7th.
Here's the address for Civil War Quilts.
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/

Seasonal Upcycling

$
0
0
Seasonal Upcycling is a decorating theme once again this year.
I've noticed several trees made of cupcake liners.


A Spoonful of Sugar Designs

There's a lot of potential here, but to make
these trees truly environmentally friendly wouldn't you have
to use used cupcake liners?

Wait a minute, that's not the point. It's clever re-purposing....

ColleensCDMR
I've found lots of trees made from sewing room stuff.

BUTTONS

Button trees by Organized Clutter


Buttons and spools by Jill Dubien

Tiny trees by The Happy Button

SPOOLS

Glittery Spools by Jim Gatling

From Ronda pAlazzari

FABRIC

Weihnachtsbaum Upcycling

And scraps too small to save.

Anthropologie

Wrap rags or yarn around a tree limb

Stephanie Gerard for Anthropologie

or whatever you've got.


Saving neckties for a necktie quilt?

Me---I have spent days shopping for a vintage
aluminum tree for the new modern living room.
I finally found one.
This is as far as I've gotten.
I'm mesmerized by its shininess.

Hand Quilting Demonstration in Paducah

$
0
0

The National Quilt Museum in Paducah, Kentucky, often features a top on a frame in the lobby. 

Volunteers give hand quilting demonstrations to visitors.
Here's Virginia, a member of the Yo-Yo Club of Paducah, showing how to do it.
I recognize some of my Lately Arrived From London prints in this
photo.



Volunteers also donate tops to be quilted there. The finished
quilts then go to raise funds for the museum.



Bettina Havig has recently shipped off a top to be put in the frame.
 She's alternated two nine-patch blocks on point.

And framed it with a strip border that makes the blocks
seem to float above the border.

I recognize several prints from my Moda Morris Workshop line several years ago. 
She's contrasted the oranges and olives
with a plain white neutral.


The Morris Workshop is out of print.

Those past William Morris lines are hard to find. The
fabric goes fast, so I am taking this opportunity to tell you
to buy my latest Morris collection:
Best of Morris from Moda.

A subtle marketing suggestion!!!!


Pre-cuts are in shops now. Yardage is scheduled to
be shipped in mid-February.



Read more about the National Quilt Museum in Paducah here:

Tetrachromats: A Genetic Anomaly You Want to Inherit

$
0
0
Cartwheels by Liza Prior Lucy

Have you heard of the recent research into color vision and genetics that indicates some people see more color than others?

Haze Kilim by Liza Prior Lucy

I have always believed people could see a different range of color. I know women who can see fifty shades of green in a field of wheat. They have a sureness about color, an understanding, that goes way beyond mine.

Cosmic Star by Jane Sassaman

Most people have genes for three color receptors; tetrachromats have four. These tetrachromats are always female and they make up 12% of the population (both men and women? or just women?)

From Piece O'Cake's Quilts with a Spin
 (Becky Goldsmith & Linda Jenkins)

Aunt Millie's Garden from Piece O'Cake 
(Becky Goldsmith & Linda Jenkins)


Leafing Large by Laura Wasilowsky

Chicken by Ruth McDowell

A figure bandied about is that tetrachromats see 100x the color of trichomats---the majority of the population with the usual three receptors.

Prickly Pear by Ruth McDowell

Marquee Diamonds by Kathy Doughty

In Vino Veritas by Beth Markel

 The receptors are the cones.

That's the extent of my genetics and physiology knowledge.
Rods and cones.
Rods see black and white; cones see color.


Maria Schell, Dance Party at Tamara's House
Not only am I surrounded by probable tetrachromats in my business
of quilt and fabric design...


Log Cabin by Sujata Shah

But many of my friends seem to have a skill that is way beyond what I see.

Sujata Shah, Spider Web

Without a genetic test it's not possible to determine just who's a 4 and who's a 3.

Bobbi Finley, Alfie Dreams

But I have my suspicions.
Log Cabin by Carol Gilham Jones

I would imagine many of you are tetrachromats, as are bumblebees and zebra finches.

Nancy Crow, Color Improvisations

I first read about this in an article in December's Vogue (always a reliable science source) but here are some other links:

http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20140905-the-women-with-super-human-vision

http://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/tasting-the-universe/201310/dna-results-positive-tetrachromacy-0

Free Label for Your Richmond Reds Quilt

$
0
0
Print this label onto fabric for a period look to your quilt
made of my Moda Richmond Reds fabrics.

How to Print
  • Create a word file or a new empty JPG file that is 8-1/2" x 11".
  • Click on the image above.
  • Right click on it and save it to your file.
  • Print that file out on a pretreated printable fabric sheet that is 8-1/2" x 11". The label should be 5" x 5".
Richmond Female Institute in 1856

The label depicts pre-Civil-War Virginia, the world of ladies' academies such as the Williamsburg
Academy in the picture on the label.

Lucy Cobb Institute, Georgia


Hagerstown Female Seminary, Maryland

Salem Female Academy, North Carolina

Ambrotype portrait of teacher and students,about 1860

Apparently there was a fashion for lace collars, stripes and plaids and center parts in the hair.


Eye Opening Symposium March 13-14 2015

$
0
0

Baltimore Album Quilt, 
Made for Betsey Hobbs Harper and William Harper about 1848. 
Gift of Catherine T. Winter. 
Collection of the Daughters of the American Revolution Museum.


Eye Opening: New Research in Maryland and Virginia Quilts

March 13-14, 2015

The DAR Museum is bringing together experts for a symposium held in conjunction with their year-long exhibit Eye on Elegance. Historians, curators, conservators, and authors will present the latest research on quilts of the area.



The symposium takes place at the DAR Museum Saturday, March 14, 2015, 8:30 am to 7 pm.
Presentations are from 8:30 am to 4 pm. 
An evening reception, 4:30 pm to 7 pm, wraps up the day's event with book signings, drinks and hors d' oeuvres. 

A  Friday evening social event kicks off the get-together on March 13 from 5 pm to 8 pm with a curator's tour of Eye on Elegance by Alden O'Brien, DAR Museum's Curator of Textiles and Costumes. Drinks and hors d' ouevres will be served. Separate ticket required.



Speakers: 
Barbara Brackman: "Hands All Round: One Woman/One Quilt?"

Debby Cooney, Quilt Historian, Editor, A Maryland Album. 

Bunnie Jordan, Quilt Historian, Appraiser, Co-Author, Quilts of Virginia: "Quilts of Early Maryland and Virginia"

Deb Kraak, Independent Museum Professional.

Ronda Harrell McAllen, Quilt Historian, Author: "The Life and Times of Achsah Goodwin Wilkins"

Alden O'Brien, Curator, DAR Museum: "Three Master Quilters of Maryland and Virginia"

Virginia Vis, Quilt Historian, Conservator: "Haven't I Seen That Before? Baltimore Album Quilt Patterns"



Buy tickets here. 


The main ticket includes general registration fee for the symposium on Saturday, March 14, 2015, 8:30 am to 4 pm, PLUS all food for the day including a continental breakfast, box lunch, morning and afternoon snacks, and evening reception with drinks and hors d' oeuvres.

Threads of Memory BOM Free Pattern Posts

$
0
0



Threads of Memory #1
Portsmouth Star
by Jo 

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/01/threads-of-memory-1-portsmouth-star-for.html


Over on my Civil War Quilts blog I did a free Block of the Month pattern in 2014 for a series of original stars called Threads of Memory.We're on to a new project over there but I thought I would post this page with the addresses for the 12 monthly patterns.

Threads of Memory #2
Mercer County Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/02/threads-of-memory-2-mercer-county-star.html

For my models I chose these red, black and white stars by Jo who did such a great job of interpreting my designs in graphic fashion.

Threads of Memory #3
New Garden Star


Each block symbolizes a true story about slavery, escape, emancipation and freedom---an accurate form of "Underground Railroad" quilt. The blocks are named after locations important in the history of American slavery. The stories celebrate courageous individuals.



Threads of Memory #4
Canada Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/04/threads-of-memory-4-canada-star-for.html


Threads of Memory #5
Madison Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/05/threads-of-memory-5-madison-star-for.html


Threads of Memory #6
Salem Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/06/threads-of-memory-6-salem-star-for.html



Threads of Memory #7
Oberlin Star


http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/07/threads-of-memory-7-oberlin-star-for.html


Threads of Memory #8
Jacksonville Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/08/threads-of-memory-8-jacksonville-star.html


Threads of Memory #9
Lancaster Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/09/threads-of-memory-9-lancaster-star-for.html



Threads of Memory #10
Britain's Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/10/threads-of-memory-10-britains-star-for.html


Threads of Memory #11
St. Charles Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/11/threads-of-memory-11-st-charles-star.html


Threads of Memory #12
Rochester Star

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/12/threads-of-memory-12-rochester-star-for.html

See Jo's Flickr page with photos of this set of blocks. She made other sets and has lots of her work to view here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jotokla/with/10104216125/

And read the post with yardage for the "official set" here:
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014/02/three-fancy-sets-for-threads-of-memory.html



Thanks to Jo for doing such a fabulous set of blocks!

Our Flickr page for this series is here:
https://www.flickr.com/groups/threadsofmemory/

Antique Quilt Shows: Winter and Spring 2015

$
0
0
Gas is cheap!
Get that behemoth out of the garage
and plan a field trip to see
the quilt shows in 2015.



California, San Diego. 
The Mingei Museum will display changing selections from the Pat L. Nickols collection throughout 2015 in its Theater Gallery.



California, San Jose
San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles. Antique Ohio Amish Quilts from the Darwin Bearley Collection, 40 bed, crib and doll quilts, illustrating the breadth of the Ohio Amish quilt making tradition between 1880 and 1940. Through March 1, 2015.
http://www.sjquiltmuseum.org/exhibitions.html




Colorado, Denver
Denver Art Museum. First Glance - Second Look: Quilts from the Collection, through March 22, 2015.
http://www.denverartmuseum.org/exhibitions/first-glance-second-look-quilts-denver-art-museum-collection
Catalog available for $10.95
http://shop.denverartmuseum.org/SelectSKU.aspx?skuid=1061026



Massachusetts, Concord

Concord Museum. Behind Closed Doors: Asleep in New England includes bedding and quilts.
Curated by Jane and Richard Nylander. Through March 22, 2015
http://www.concordmuseum.org/behind-closed-doors.php


Massachusetts, Lowell

New England Quilt Museum. A Passion for Prussian Blue, curated by Anita Loscalzo, focuses on this brilliant dye. January 14-April 4, 2015.
http://nequiltmuseum.org/home.html

Nebraska, Lincoln
International Quilt Study Center and Quilt Museum:
The museum's main galleries are closed for repainting through February 5, 2015. Small exhibits are mounted in other areas of the building. See the list here:

When the main galleries re-open:

Signature Cloths. Curated by Lynn Setterington, past recipient of the IQSCM Research Fellowship. Signature Cloths focuses on sewn signatures as visual ciphers and as a method of social engagement, with emphasis on the autographs of ordinary people. Feb. 6 - May 31, 2015 

Reflections of the Exotic East in American Quilts
examines the influence of Asian art and culture on American quiltmaking during the past 200 years. Feb. 6 - Aug. 25, 2015

Covering the War: American Quilts in Times of Conflict. Feb. 6 - Nov. 21, 2015

Traditions Made Modern: Double Wedding Ring Quilts by Victoria Findlay Wolfe. March 31 - June 28, 2015


Nebraska State Historical Society at the Great Plains Art Museum. Homefront & Battlefield: Quilts & Context in the Civil War. This show from the American Textile History Museum "highlights a broad range of textile artifacts and other objects to explore the Civil War." February 3 - June 27, 2015.
http://www.unl.edu/plains/gallery/exhibitions.shtml

New York, Manhattan
Empire Quilters are hosting a weekend of speakers during their quilt show Under A New Star at the Fashion Institute of Technology. March 28 & 29, 2015.  Speakers include Paula Nadelstern, Roderick Kiracofe, Amelia Peck, Sue Reich, Elizabeth Warren & Barbara Brackman. See the program here:

Virginia, Christiansburg
Montgomery Museum and Lewis Miller Regional Art Center. A Pieced History: Quilts of Montgomery County. Twenty locally made historical quilts, through April, 2015.
http://montgomerymuseum.org/

Virginia, Harrisonburg 
Virginia Quilt Museum. Curator's Choice: Treasures of the Vault. A selection from the museum's collection. February 3 - March 28, 2015



Virginia, Williamsburg

Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum, A Celebration of Quilts"features dozens of quilts that represent the diversity of quilts made in America from the 18th through 20th centuries. Several of the quilts are new to the collection and have never before been seen by the public."
Through June, 2016.
http://www.history.org/history/museums/abby_art_current.cfm


Colonial Williamsburg is hosting a textile symposium Stitching Together a National Identity, Sunday through Tuesday, March 15-17, 2015. "Through a series of formal lectures and juried papers, the symposium will address the question of what is American in American quilts, clothing, and needlework; provide updates on the latest research techniques and databases; and dispel myths about homespun and Yankee thrift." See the impressive program here:
http://www.cvent.com/events/2015-stitching-together-a-national-identity/agenda-822488c37d404f97b56982746591bdf6.aspx



Wisconsin, Cedarburg
Wisconsin Museum of Quilts & Fiber Arts. Sheared Delights, wool quilts. Through January 18, 2015
http://wiquiltmuseum.com/



Washington D.C.
D.A.R. Museum. Eye on Elegance: Early Quilts of Maryland and Virginia. Through September 5, 2015.

Applique Flower Basket dated 1849
by Anna Catherine Hummel Markey Garnhart

Curator of Costume and Textiles Alden O’Brien looks at quilts from Maryland and Virginia in an exhibit of 36 quilts with a focus on quilts from 1790 to 1860, design migrations and the many hands who made the quilts.

A symposium will be held on Saturday March 14, 2015 in conjunction with the exhibit. Below are links to the DAR Museum's page and a post I did on the topic.
http://www.dar.org/museum

http://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2015/01/eye-opening-symposium-march-13-14-2015.html

Best of Morris GiveAway: What's Your Favorite?

$
0
0
Honeysuckle (8115-21) from Moda's Best of Morris collection
to be in shops mid-February

THE GIVE-AWAY IS OVER. BRENDA IN MANITOBA IS THE WINNER!
Runners up who get Charm packs are
PK Sews and Renate.
Thanks for all the comments. I think the most popular is Honeysuckle, followed
by Strawberry Thief and Willow Boughs.

It's hard to pick a favorite but I certainly am fond of Honeysuckle.

I included the print in the first William Morris reproduction collection
we did at Moda in 2008.
The above colorways were printed for A Morris Garden seven years ago.


We expanded the palette beyond the first printing
to include Red,

Brown,

And Indigo, so there are five colorways of Marigold in the new collection.

I have a package of Fat Eighths of the whole Best of Morris line,
which I will give away to the winner of the contest described below.

Best of Morris
The pieces are precut to 9" x 22"
The winner chosen by some strange method I have developed will get the package of Fat-Eighths.
There may be runners-up who will get Charm Squares (5" x 5" precuts). (Winners above)

Do note the print on top of the pre-cuts.


Sewers

$
0
0
This joke is only funny in English

And even then.....


I belong to a stitch group called the City Sewers.
We find this pun endlessly amusing.









Then there are other meanings



Someone at the Piece O' Cake blog has a sophisticated
sense of humor. Becky collects shots she's taken of her
feet and the sewer.




Wait a minute. What's that say?

Je Suis Charlie 2015

$
0
0

A free label to remember the victims of the horrors in France and
to stand up for free speech. See below.

Quilter Katell in France asks us to put a pencil in our creative needlework during the year 2015.

"Let us sew, embroider, quilt pencil on Each work of 2015!A pencil to put on our works in 2015 is a small token for a big cause : not to forget the victims and help to claim the rights of expression."

Here's a link to Katell's main blog:
https://quilteuseforever.wordpress.com/

and a secondary site for memorials:
https://crayonandpencil.wordpress.com/

And some snapshots of images from her blog

Katell

Nadine

Marie-Christine



Des tulipes et des coeurs

Nifty Quilts



I made this label you might want to print out on fabric.

How to Print

  • Create a word file or a new empty JPG file that is 8-1/2" x 11".
  • Click on the image above.
  • Right click on it and save it to your file.
  • Print that file out on a pretreated, printable fabric sheet that is 8-1/2" x 11". The label should be 5-1/2" square.




The New Yorker this week

A little Photoshopping by me.




Pantone's Marsala Red in Best of Morris

$
0
0

Red colorway of my Best of Morris line for Moda.
Yardage scheduled for delivery to shops in February

The Pantone Color Institute announces an annual color trend. 
Marsala is the shade for 2015.


I'll drink to that.

"Much like the fortified wine that gives Marsala its name, this tasteful hue embodies the satisfying richness of a fulfilling meal while its grounding red-brown roots emanate a sophisticated, natural earthiness. This hearty, yet stylish tone is universally appealing and translates easily to fashion, beauty, industrial design, home furnishings and interiors."
It's probably no coincidence that my 2015 Morris reproduction prints in the Best of Morris collection feature a red colorway. When we plan a line a year or so before it shows up in shops we consider trending colors, which is also how Pantone picks their color of the year.

Leatrice Eiseman Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute, explains:

"I look for ascending color trends, colors that are being used in broader ways and broader context than before.."

In each Morris reproduction fabric collection we design we include colorways that echo William Morris's use of natural dyes.

We usually include a sage green,

an indigo blue

and an earthy brown

and then we choose a variable....
yellow, black, teal, lavender...
or red.

I don't do this design alone so it may be that the Moda designers who coordinate colors throughout their entire line of all their designers also saw an increase in interest in red. 

Moda's Bella Solids
Tomato Soup, Kansas Red

They probably know about the Pantone Color of the Year way before the rest of us do too.


I get my ideas of what people are buying and will want to buy from decorating magazines, store windows and the bedding department at the Macy's in Kansas City.


Sometimes I'm right and sometimes I'm wrong.
My new storm door matches this Parisian restaurant window.
I still don't know if that was a good idea.

Who are these Pantone people who set color trends? The company makes a color matching system. The "Color of the Year" is an excellent hook to hang a story about color on.


 When I started designing for Moda I had a Pantone sample book and so did the designers at Moda. 


I'd tell them to match #18-1436 and they'd look it up in their book.
It worked well.

Now we do it differently---computer design is calibrated to Pantone systems. And I mostly use Moda's own Bella Solids system to describe color.



Meanwhile, I feel better about that storm door. When somebody says "Why?" I'll say: "It's the color of the year."

March Quilt Seminars & Conferences

$
0
0



We are lucky enough to look forward to several programs featuring quilt history in March on the east coast.

March 13 & 14, 2015 Friday & Saturday
Washington D.C., D.A.R. Museum.


A symposium will be held on Saturday March 14, 2015 in conjunction with the current quilt exhibit.


Eye Opening: New Research on Maryland and Virginia Quilts brings together historians, curators, conservators, and authors to present their latest research on quilts of the area.

Below are links to the DAR Museum's page and a post I did on the topic.
http://www.dar.org/museum
http://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2015/01/eye-opening-symposium-march-13-14-2015.html


The exhibit, Eye on Elegance: Early Quilts of Maryland and Virginia, will be up through September 5, 2015. Curator of Costume and Textiles Alden O’Brien examined 36 quilts from Maryland and Virginia,1790 to 1860. The themes: Design migrations and the many hands who made the quilts.

March 15-17, 2015 Sunday -Tuesday
Williamsburg, Virginia, Colonial Williamsburg


A textile symposium Stitching Together a National Identity, Sunday through Tuesday, March 15-17, 2015. "Through a series of formal lectures and juried papers, the symposium will address the question of what is American in American quilts, clothing, and needlework; provide updates on the latest research techniques and databases; and dispel myths about homespun and Yankee thrift." 

Detail of a cut-out chintz block from the collection of
Colonial Williamsburg



The current quilt exhibit at the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum, A Celebration of Quilts "features dozens of quilts that represent the diversity of quilts made in America from the 18th through 20th centuries. Several of the quilts are new to the collection and have never before been seen by the public."Through June, 2016.
http://www.history.org/history/museums/abby_art_current.cfm

March 28 & 29, 2015 Saturday & Sunday.
New York City

Empire Quilters are hosting a weekend of speakers during their quilt show Under A New Star at the Fashion Institute of Technology. March 28 & 29, 2015. Speakers include Paula Nadelstern, Roderick Kiracofe, Amelia Peck, Sue Reich, Elizabeth Warren & Barbara Brackman. See the program here:
http://www.empirequilters.net/shows.php?ID=67

More About Honeysuckle in the Best of Morris

$
0
0
Honeysuckle in Indigo Blue
from my Best of Morris line for Moda

The number for Honeysuckle is 8115

Vintage Wallpaper Sample Book page 57: Honeysuckle, pattern #263

Like many Morris & Company patterns, Honeysuckle was designed as wallpaper. The Brooklyn Museum has a sample book from about 1915 that includes this swatch. 


The design has been attributed to William Morris's daughter May Morris.

Mary (May) Morris 1862-1938

May studied at London's South Kensington School of Design in the early 1880s. She is credited with the pattern in 1883.

Honeysuckle by William Morris 1876

Her inspiration may have been this print by her father done a few years earlier.

Root of the Mountains, 1890
A book from Chiswick press bound in the first Honeysuckle.


 May has lightened the design by focusing on one flower.

Read more about May Morris at the Victoria and Albert Museum website:



The first Morris collection we did at Moda in 2008
included this free quilt pattern for "Stepping Stone,"
a nine-patch quilt on point.


Betty made it with her collection of Morris prints
including several from that 2008 line A Morris Garden.


See more of Betty's William Morris quilt at this post:



See more about this new line Best of Morris here at Moda:



Another Adam & Eve Quilt

$
0
0

Adam & Eve attributed to Mary Worthington Walker, circa 1850.
Collection of the Minnesota Historical Society.

I was looking through the digital catalog of the Minnesota Historical Society's quilt collection
and came across this mid-19th-century quilt depicting Adam and Eve and the tale of the Garden of Eden.

Here are Adam and Eve at the gates of Eden,
leaving behind a garden of fruit trees and peacocks.

Read more here:

Adam & Eve by Shauna Christensen, 2001

I knew the pattern well because over 20 years 
ago I drew it for our Sunflower Pattern Co-operative
and we sold quite a few copies. It's out of print now.

(1) Garden of Eden Quilt 86" x 75" Estimated date: 1850-1880
Collection of the National Museum of American History.
 Gift of Dorothy Diffey Beldsoe in memory of Laura Doty Diffy.
Maker unknown, purchased in Fort Smith, Arkansas about 1900.

We based ours on two quilts with Adam and Eve imagery--- the two that we knew of at the time---the Smithsonian's above (1) and the stained version below (2). Mary Worthington Walker's version at the top of the page is the sixth in the digital file .

(2) By Sylvia S. Queen (1804-1896), probably in LaPorte County, Indiana. 
Estimated date 1850-1880.
Collection of the Johnson County (Kansas) Museum
Adam & Eve's story is told in the grape vine border.
Why this quilt is purple I cannot say.


(3) Doyle Auctions sold this version in 2006. It's similar in structure
and imagery to the Smithsonian's.


(4) The Pilgrim/Roy collection once had a quilt quite
similar to the one at the top of the page. Here's a detail
showing an almost identical couple leaving Eden.


(5) Drew Watson posted a detail photo of a quilt
she restored. Eden is represented by butterflies and Broderie-Perse applique.

Mary Worthington Walker, credited as the maker of  quilt #6 in the Minnesota Historical Society's collection, was born in Belchertown, Massachusetts in 1809. She married Samuel Foster in 1832 and they remained in Belchertown until 1846, where Samuel was a merchant. 

Belchertown, Massachusetts, about 1910

In 1846 they began a life in the west, moving first to Sheboygan Falls, Wisconsin, then in 1848 to Russell, Ohio and to Oswego, Illinois in 1855. In 1861 they located in Williamstown, Illinois, and two years later in Atlanta, Illinois. Mary died in 1897 in Chicago where she lived with a daughter.

One of her seven children, Addison Garner Foster, became a U.S. senator for Washington State in 1899, so the Fosters' lives have been documented rather well. The Minnestota museum caption suggests Mary made the quilt in Belchertown, but this is not the type of quilt one sees in New England. It seems in its applique style to be much more of a Midwestern type. Mary might have seen the pattern in Wisconsin, Ohio or Illinois and stitched it in any one of those states.

Edna Gooder sampler, 1836

The tale of Adam and Eve was common on embroidered samplers in the early 19th century.

Emily Hollaway sampler, 1847

Adam and Eve quilt from the Jim Erickson collection at 
Carol Telfair Antiques in Ontario

This quilt bordered in chintz seems to have much more to do with
the embroidered sampler patterns as if an individual had interpreted
the design in applique.

But it doesn't look as if the quilters in the six quilts shown above independently borrowed the imagery from the embroidery. Rather they passed around some rather distinctive design ideas, particularly the fully clothed woman shown in silhouette...

something we also see in Harriet Powers's Bible Quilts,
this one in the collection of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts.
Powers lived in Georgia and made two pictorial quilts in
the 1880s and '90s,

See a previous post about the 19th-century pattern that was somehow handed around from quilter to quilter:
http://barbarabrackman.blogspot.com/2010/03/garden-of-eden.html

Karen Kluba of Rosewood Manor has done an embroidered
sampler pattern based on a quilt,
perhaps #5, the one that Drew Watson posted details of.

And on that preposition I will end this post.

One Ubiquitous Leaf Print

$
0
0

The original print
I was looking through the current quilts on the online antique sites
and came across this very nice detail shot of a very nice leaf print.

Wait a minute. I know that print!

The reproduction print Bloomington

The reproduction print is #8307 in my Richmond Reds fabric line.

Read more about the Bloomington print here:


The vintage version is set with the blue-on-blue print we tend to call Lancaster blue today---a good clue to a quilt from about 1870-1900. The other browns in madder-red shades could be 1840-1890 and the geometric brown looks to be that brown-on-blue style typical of the 1880s. So I am guessing
the quilt top is about 1870-1890.

It's that mid-to-late-19th-century look I was interpreting 
in both the Richmond Red and the Union Blues collections.
The coloring is updated, toned-down fashion.

BlockBase #3161

It took me a while to find the pattern in BlockBase because I was looking at is as a triangular block, but it's actually a square block placed on point. I found it in the category of two-patch blocks

with a basic structure like this.


A digital sketch of the block in the old top.

The triangles are seen as birds so it has several avian names, like Birds in the Air or Flying Birds, published in the 20th century. In her 1935 index to patterns Carrie Hall called it White Cloud...

White Cloud in 1951

 (probably because there is a town called White Cloud near her Leavenworth, Kansas home.)

Carrie Hall Sampler by Susan.
She finished it off with a border of the White Cloud Block

Birds in the Air quilt by Patti Mersmann Poe, 1996
Patti made this for my Quilts from the Civil War book in the '90s.

I should have recognized the block as I've often seen the bird names as symbolic of freedom and used it in Civil War reproduction quilts. See a post on the block from my 2011 Civil War Sampler block of the week here:


I guess it took so long for me to find the pattern, because I was too focused on the tree (the leaf print) rather than the forest (the patchwork pattern.)

While working on this post I found another vintage example of the leaf print
in a mid-century star quilt...

And then this one, a tumbler block
in a quilt dated "Centennial. 1876"


Both very much like my document swatch.
It's apparently a classic.

Kelly Cline used the red reproduction in her recent
top.

She used a pattern by Denniele Bohannon
published in the Winter 2015 edition
of Quilting Quarterly.

The other two fabrics she found in my garage sale when I sold off my boxes of chintz reproductions. I'd had those two prints for 20 years and hadn't done much with them. Kelly took off in a new direction.

Passion for Prussian Blue: Free Pattern

$
0
0
Repro Block: By Ddwgram

What's your favorite color?
This week mine is Prussian blue!

Vintage quilt, date-inscribed 1850

Prussian blue dyed both the dark blue ground and the lighter shades in the figures above. The contrasting color was often a tan called buff.

Wishful thinking.


It's not too late to get caught up in a mid-19th-century madness---160 years later.

Repro Block By Shawn


Repro Block by Becky Brown

Over at my Civil War Quilts blog I'm doing a free online class in reproduction fabrics in the form of a QuiltAlong. Week 2 in Stars in a Time Warp featured Prussian Blue.

Vintage quilt, 1840-1860

Prussian blue is a mineral dye that could color both figures and grounds a wide
range of blue. In the 1840s and '50s there was a rage for bright blues in
clothing and quilts.

Vintage block, mid-19th century

The other blue commonly seen in antique quilts is indigo blue,
which generally lacked Prussian blue's brilliance.

Mid-19th-century quilt auctioned at Sotheby's
Indigo is much more conservative in color.

Repro Block: Amy

Our virtual sewing group at Civil War Quilts is doing great at picking reproduction prints.

Repro Block: Valerie

Reproduction block by Anita Lozcalzo,
made for a group project.

Anita Lozcalzo loves Prussian blue too. Her exhibit A Passion for Prussian Blue focuses on this brilliant dye. See it at the New England Quilt Museum before April 4, 2015.

http://www.nequiltmuseum.org/


Vintage quilt
Prussian blue sashing was quite the thing in the 1840s & '50s.

Here's a detail of a vintage quilt from the NEQM show. The maker
thought the Prussian blue sashing was so stylish
she didn't need patchwork anywhere else.

Repro Block by Ddwgram

Repro Block by VictoriaCarroll

Repro Block by SF

Vintage quilt--Note the range of blues---blue-violet
to almost green---dark blue to pale.

Repro Block: VictoriaCarroll

Repro Block: Becky Brown

Vintage quilt piece from
Rocky Mountain Quilts


Scroll down for an EQ7 pattern for a 45-1/4" square quilt of
6 inch blocks with 2" finished sashing. You could piece
25 Prussian blue stars into Prussian blue sashing.

Prussian blue reproduction
from Union Blues, my current Moda collection.
This print is #8298-14.


Sketch for a reproduction quilt echoing the decades 1840-1860.

I set the edge triangles with Metropolitan Fair (#8232)

I Photoshopped the reproduction stars above into the EQ sketch..
If that pink is tooooo much...

A light blue cornerstone might be calmer.

45-1/4"
The Pattern from EQ7


EQ7 calculates your number of patches and yardage for you. 

You Need:
  • 25 Star Blocks finishing to 6" (light gray above)
  • 54 Prussian Blue Sashing Strips (dark blue above) cut to rectangles 6-1/2" x 2-1/2".
  • 40 cornerstones (pink) cut  2-1/2" square.
  • 12 edge triangles (medium blue). Cut 3 squares 9-3/4". Cut each into four triangles with 2 diagonal cuts.


  • 4 corner triangles. Cut 2 squares 5-1/8". Cut each into two triangles with a diagonal cut.



Yardage
EQ7 says you need
  • Cornerstones: 3/8 yard
  • Sashing Strips 1 yard
  • Edge Triangles 5/8 yard

Then I tossed in a mitered border made from the Metropolitan Fair stripe of a few years ago.


Metropolitan Fair #8231

57-1/4" x 57-1/4" 

With a 6" finished border
Readers' blocks, my digital sketching.

Any gorgeous Prussian blue repro would do.

57-1/4" x 57-1/4" 
With a 6" finished border

If you want to add a border you'll need 1-3/4" yards.

  • Cut 4 strips for mitered borders  6-1/2" wide x  57-3/4" long.

Repro Block by Cynthia


See more Prussian Blues old and new at Barbara Schaffer's blog:

Willow Bough in The Best of Morris

$
0
0
Maybe my favorite Morris print is the Willow Bough,
which we've colored in six ways for my new Best of Morris line from Moda.


Willow Bough was designed by William Morris himself in 1887. The pattern may be the signature Morris print in its combination of simplicity and complexity.


Willow Bough wallpaper sample in the collection of the 
Victoria an Albert Museum

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O248728/willow-bough-wallpaper-morris-william/

Linda Parry catalogs the pattern as initially an 1887 woodblock-printed wall paper and then re-cut for a 36" wide fabric repeat in 1895.

Jane Morris's bedroom at the Red House
is papered and draped in Willow Bough
http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/red-house/

Willough Bough was in the first Moda reproduction
A Morris Garden in 2008
We've added red, brown and darker blues to the
new line.



Every year the William Morris Society of Canada bakes a cake for "Dear William's" birthday. In 2011 they chose Willow Bough for the theme. See some other cakes here:
http://www.wmsc.ca/2014/03/wmsc-likes-its-cake.html


Pam Cave used several of my Morris collections to make her
sawtooth block sampler here. In the center lower row a Willow Bough from
that first line.

She writes: I have spent quite a few years making the blocks - 99 of them. And finally this past November I put all the blocks together. Unfortunately after I put it together I discovered I had to take the quilt apart and re-square up the blocks and reassemble it. Eek! But that is now completed.


It is just a top at this point. And not yet completed - as I have a border yet to put on.
...I really love this quilt so I felt it was worth the effort.


 She says she'll send pictures when she gets the border put on. But what to choose?

Moda's Go Big Pattern Book

$
0
0

Moda/United Notions has printed a new booklet with patterns for big blocks.
Go Big For Your Home
is a Baker's Dozen of 32-inch blocks.
"Big chunky pieces let the fabric do the work for you."

I like that the cover quilt is made from my Union Blues collection 
of reproduction fabrics.






You get paterns for 13 large blocks, which would make good crib quilts
or wall hangings as one big block, or full-sized quilts in multiples.

There's a tradition of using large blocks.

Particularly in mid-19th-century applique


And for complicated pieced blocks

Textile Museum of Canada
such as feathered stars.

From Stella Rubin's online store

But sometimes simple blocks show design genius.

Four-block strip quilt by Loretta Pettway,
Gee's Bend, Alabama


If you are thinking big, look for this book.

Viewing all 1441 articles
Browse latest View live